Day 24

We are safely in Vienna.  I'm sitting at a computer console in an Austrian pub drinking a german lager.  Just had a healthy serving of roasted pork, sauerkraut and dumplings.  I think it goes without saying that Vienna is a captivating city, worth at least a week to wander the narrow streets and to explore the museums.  I really like the vibe here - and the austrians have been, as expected, wonderful hosts thus far.  We unfortunately don't have much time in Europe so we are headed out tomorrow for a small town in western Austria called Hallstat in the Alps.

The contrast between Austria and the Caucuses couldn't be more marked.  Food, culture, environmental ethic, cleanliness -- all incredibly different.  We saw an Austrian dude today cleaning the black metal box that houses the walk/don't walk signal at a crosswalk with a handrag.

One last tidbit on Armenia.  It is known for its cognac which is made near the center of Yerevan in Willy Wonkaesque looking factories.  Yesterday Erin and I scheduled a tour of one of them.  At the end of the tour they apparently pour you a healthy portion of a 10-year old cognac.  And I wanted to see the Armenian oopa loopas.  We ended up going to the wrong factory and missing the tour.  Later that night I tried a cognac for the first time.  A 5-year made by Ararat.  I've never been a cognac drinker but I saw the light last night.  The smooth, mellow finish was emblematic of the people who brew it.  What tasty wholesomeness.  I like it so much I bought a bottle at the duty free to drink in Austria.  The Poles at the Warsaw airport took it from me.  I was livid -- ask Erin -- despite the fact that the guy whö took it from me was a big Pole wearing fatigues and a fedora and was clearly unapologetic about throwing the bottle in the garabage.  I don't know if the stuff is sold in the states (I've never seen it) but, if you can find it, pick up a bottle ASAP (the brand names are Ararat or Noy).

My post mortem on the Caucuses:  it was truly a unique travel experience.  It was exhilirating at times (the mountains in Kazbegi, the melting monastery at Anapat, the view of Ararat towering over Yerevan), totally foreign nearly all the time, and frustrating -- mostly because of the language barrier.  I've never felt so out of place before in all my travels, including China and the Solomon Islands.  It made for an interesting experience but also at times a challenging one.  I was hoping for more of connection with the Armenian people but that was not to be.  I think perhaps I made the mistake of not trying to reach out to an Armenian or two before we left for our trip -- someone who could have shown us the ropes.  In any event I enjoyed the Caucuses immensely and will never forget them.